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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.